I took some recommendations from various tech websites (http://www.anandtech.com, http://www.tomshardware.com, http://www.sharkeyextreme.com mainly) - and went through it as more of a beginner than an enthusiast. Besides which, these websites (and other similar websites) have really cut back on reviews and recommendations (if I were a pessimist I would say it's probably because they don't get as many free components to test anymore.)
Regardless, I built the following computer in about 2 days (after I found all of the components.) Besides mentioning the components I chose, I'll try to include issues that came up (that weren't pointed out elsewhere). With luck this will help or encourage someone else to build their own computer.
Generally I'm going to stay away from costs here (mainly because they fluctuate so much.) My best advice is to put together a list of all the components and see what price you can find them for on the Internet (including shipping).
Primary Goals:
To build a powerful computer without spending a lot of money. You can find cheap PCs easily, though they won't have the specific components you may want. Or you can buy a pre-made PC that has most/if not all of the components that you want - but it'll cost you probably twice as much as you would spend if you built it yourself.
Also keep in mind that I don't want to overclock for now (maybe at some point in the future I will overclock, but at the very least I thought it would make sense to get to know the quirks of my new computer before pushing it's limits.) So while some of the components I picked are normally used primarily for overclocking - those same components should provide more stability in normal usage.
I also didn't want to build something that drove me crazy - in the process you'll inevitably run into some documentation that doesn't cover everything (sometimes the English sucks, sometimes the labels on the cables are in the wrong position, sometimes it's just old/incorrect documentation and sometimes they just don't label everything they should.) Generally most of these components were doc'ed ok, though there were some labelling issues on the case cables and some missing labels on the SDD enclosure. And some of the information on the tech websites was incorrect (or most likely old).
General Notes:
With these specific components, everything fit fairly easily except for some of the cables and initially the CPU fan. But - the CPU fan didn't fit because it was installed on the wrong side. So my basic point is there shouldn't be a need for force anything into the case - if there is, then you may have installed something incorrectly.
I put the whole thing together over a couple of nights. You could probably do it all in one night, but then your stress levels will go up. And it's probably better not to try to finish everything in one night anyways (take the amount of time you think it will take, double it and break it up into twice as many sessions for half the time each). Also, by breaking the build up it gives you time between build stages to decide if you installed a component in the best location.
As sort of a related suggestion, as long as shipping costs aren't too bad you may want to ship components out in stages (which can help you break up the build):
Stage 1:
Case
Power Supply
Stage 2:
Hard Drive
SSD
SSD Enclosure
DVD Rom Drve
Stage 3:
CPU
CPU fan
Motherboard
Memory
Stage 4:
Video Card
OS
One small problem with the case is while all of the components shipped with enough screws (and the case shipped with extra screws), some of the screws didn't fit very well (don't know if the screw holes were properly cleaned, or whether the screws weren't the right size.) Not a big deal, though you may need to shop for extra screws.
And the SSD enclosure supports 2 separate drives, but they didn't bother to match the cable connections to the drive slot.
The only truly painful part of the install was attaching all of the cables - it's just a tough reach for some of them. But the good news is you have access into the case from both sides for most of the install, so it won't drive you completely mad.
I picked up everything from http://www.amazon.com, http://www.newegg.com and http://www.antaresdigital.com . Doesn't mean those are the best places to go, but I was able to find everything with them.
Unofficially it takes about 30 seconds to cold boot my computer, and 5 seconds to shutdown (I have no idea what the breakdown is between hardware components and software - but that is quite a bit faster than my Vista PC.)
Here are the Components that I picked:
- Case: NZXT Panzerbox
- If you decide to go with this case, keep in mind that the frame is aluminum mesh (so if you spill something on it, or your cat decides to throw up on it you could ruin the computer).
- But on the other hand, the computer fans are included in the case (so you don't have to purchase them separately) - and they appear to be of high quality.
- The motherboard sits on a removable tray (which can help with installing components.) You still need to attach all of the cables with the tray inside the case, so it's not perfect - but it does remove some headaches.
- One piece was broken in the box when I received it - the external plate for a 3.5" drive bay (but luckily I have no use for the piece).
- One nice thing with the case design are the extra USB and audio ports on the top of the case (rather than behind the case or on the floor).
- The button cables, audio cables and USB cables from the case to the motherboard were labelled, but they didn't bother to mark what connection was the ground. For that matter, the label wasn't consistently on the same side of the cable (so you couldn't assume that the cables were in the right direction based on whether you could see the label.)
- I used an ATX motherboard - though the doc says the case supports ATX, FLEX ATX, MINI ATX, MICRO ATX
- The pictures in the doc are useless (details are all blacked out). But generally I didn't need to see them anyways.
- There are 2 separate 3.5" drive bays. So one piece of advice I can give you is if you have trouble installing the drive cables for one location you might be better off just switching to the other location (both face one of the case fans, so there shouldn't be a benefit in using one over the other.) Just a bit of advice that if you get too focused on making one drive connection fit it may be easiest to switch to the other drive bay. Also, tomshardware apparently was using a case with no 3.5" drive bays - my case had them.
- The only 2 things on the case that are flimsy appear to be the Power and Reset button in front of the case. They shake when you touch them, and are small (so if you're building the case for someone that needs larger buttons you may want to consider a different case.) Plus, the buttons are the same color as the case (black).
- The fan attached to the back of the case has a power cable that scrapes against the case wall when you remove and insert the motherboard tray. And since the case wall is sort of sharp - be careful of the cable (it's easy to push the case wall out enough that it doesn't scrape, but you have to be careful.)
- Because the case is made of aluminum mesh, it's not very quiet. But on the other hand if you get really adventuresome it does come with attachments for water cooling (which should quiet it down by replacing the fans). For me this is not a big deal.
- Motherboard: MSI P55-GD65 1156 RT
- One nice thing with MSI is they have a semi-automated overclocking option OC-Genie (there's a button on the motherboard that attempts to overclock your memory and cpu to a stable level.) So you don't necessarily need to mess with BIOS settings. But as I mentioned earlier, I don't want to overclock yet (if at all).
- The case cable connections are in a hard position to reach (connecting them was the most frustrating part of the build.)
- The SATA cable connections are also in a tough place to reach. But if you slide your motherboard tray partially into the case you can reach them from behind the case.
- Installing the CPU on the motherboard is straightforward. I chose to install the CPU prior to installing the motherboard on the motherboard tray - mainly because I thought this was the most delicate part of the build and therefore I wants the largest amount of space to work in.
- The motherboard also comes with a version of Linux that can run off a USB drive (assuming you have a BIOS that supports booting off of a USB drive). While I haven't explored it too much, I did have some problems reading the install disc in Win7 (it can be useful having a USB drive you can boot off of when working on other computers.)
- The documentation for the motherboard was generally good.
- There are 2 separate power connectors that need to be attached - a 24-pin and an 8-pin (to be honest I don't remember whether it's an 8-pin or a 6-pin, though the same power cable is used regardless.)
- You can also make a backup of your BIOS to a USB drive (through your BIOS). Which might be useful.
- CPU: INTEL CORE I5 750 2.66G R
- Nothing really to say, except this CPU seemed like a good mix of cost and performance.
- There is a CPU fan shipped with the processor. But no thermal grease was included (and I've generally read mixed reviews for default fans.) I chose to use the custom fan below, rather than the default (and the custom fan kit shipped with thermal grease).
- CPU fan: Cooler Master RR-910-HTX3-GP 130-Watt 92mm Hyper TX3 CPU Cooler for 775/1156/AMD/AM2/AM3
- You probably don't need a custom fan if you don't plan on overclocking (Intel includes a fan with the processor). I'm still debating whether I want to or not, but worse case I figured my system would be more stable with better cooling regardless of whether I overclock.
- If you don't go with a custom fan, you will need to purchase some thermal grease separately (in this case the grease comes with the fan.)
- As mentioned earlier, there are 2 distinct ways the fan can be installed to the aluminum plate. And if you install it on the wrong side you won't be able to slide the motherboard tray back into the case.
- Also, the steps for mounting the fan are poorly described. You're supposed to spread grease on top of the CPU, then snap the fan support on the motherboard (over the fan), and then I think spin the legs of the fan support 90 degrees. This last part wasn't documented anywhere, and didn't appear to do anything anyways. Plus, the fan support never did appear to be flush with the CPU (I'm guessing the thermal grease is too bulky to allow a flush connection.
- Finally, the wire clips used to connect the fans to the fan support come with no instructions. Once you figure them out they fit nicely, but it's not immediately obvious how they go on. In other words, if you're fighting with the clips they probably aren't going on correctly (turn them around so the interior bend fits inside the aluminum plate).
- Memory: G.SKILL Trident 4GB (2 x 2G) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000)
- Make sure whatever memory you pick the Voltage is between 1.5V and 1.65V (the initial memory I picked was 1.7V, so I couldn't use it.)
- Hard drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
- Used for programs and files.
- I'm also in the process of changing as many O/S write functions as possible to point to this drive (IE temporary file location, for instance). I did this to improve SSD access (see below).
- SSD: Intel X25-M 80GB SSD
- Used as my O/S Drive (keep the Writes to a minimum for the drive.) You can easily skip a SSD in favor of a standard hard drive. I chose to use one mainly because it improves OS responsiveness (supposedly significantly over a regular hard drive.)
- The main slowdown with this drive are deletes (not actually writes) - as I understand it SSD drives don't properly cleanup deleted files.
- There is a new firmware from Intel that is supposed to correct this problem, but there are problems with the firmware as well. And as is typical, Intel's response to a problem with this specific driver was to remove the driver. Which would have been ok if they included a link to the previous driver, but they didn't. Plus, they suggest that the driver will speed up usage of both the 80GB and 160GB SSDs, but they also suggest that it will only help the 160GB SSD. It's confusing, so for now I'll probably just stick with the default driver. http://www.intel.com/support/ssdc/hpssd/sb/CS-031021.htm .
- I stuck with SATA power connectors.
- Update (12/5/2009): If you want to enable TRIM on your SSD, you need to configure your BIOS prior to installing Win7 to use AHCI. There are 2 entries in your BIOS that refer to AHCI (one in the Integrated Peripherals section and one I think under Advanced BIOS features.) I don't know which one is the correct one to use, though I think it depends on which SATA connection you used (1-6, 7). I would guess if your drive is connected to SATA 1-6 you would want to use the Advanced BIOS setting - otherwise use the Integrated Peripheral setting. Similarly, this sort of suggests that you may want to move your hard drive connection to SATA 7.
- Video card:
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- DVD/CDR drive: Sony Optiarc AD-7240S-0B
- I decided it wasn't worth looking into a Blu Ray drive yet for my computer (the only possible use now is if you want to watch movies. But if you want to watch movies you probably would consider this case to be too loud to be used as a Media Center).
- These drives are easy to replace later on and cheap (I paid $30 for this one) - so it shouldn't be a big deal in the future to upgrade to a Blu Ray drive.
- Power supply: CORSAIR CMPSU-850HX
- A really nice power supply. And it comes with all of the power cables you could possibly need.
- Plug in as many connectors as possible with the tray outside of the case to make thing easier (so from devices on the motherboard to the motherboard, as well as power cables going from devices mounted in the case to the power supply.
- The first time through connecting SATA power cables to my drives I used the extra cables provided with the power supply (which was stupid). And then it occurred to me that the power supply already comes with SATA power cables pre-attached. So just try to make sure you use all of the cables that have to be included before attaching extra cables (otherwise you'll be introducing more clutter to the case.)
- SSD enclosure: SNT SNT-SATA2221B Dual 2.5" SATA SSD / HDD to 3.5" Bay Trayless Hot Swap Mobile Rack Backplane
- You need this to install your SSD drive into a 3.5" drive slot
- There are no labels on this enclosure, and since you can't see within it there's no way to tell if you're actually installing the drive correctly (except to hope and pray when you close it.) Basically, there's no obvious snap when the drive is plugged into the enclosure - but I doubt that the cover will close completely unless it's installed correctly. It's just a little scary trying to close the enclosure without being sure you've installed the drive correctly.
- There's also no indication as to which SATA connection connects to your drive - so if you guess wrong you may have to switch the cables after you've turned on your computer. It's not a major issue, but can be difficult to overcome if you have to abort from your OS install after the system drive has been marked (I had to change the boot order of my drives in my BIOS to boot off of the CD first to recover and restart my OS install.) So if you begin your OS install and the install doesn't see your SSD, then you may need to go through this as well.
- O/S Win7 64bit Professional
- 64 bit is pretty pointless right now (no popular programs besides IE 64) - but there's nothing really gained by sticking with 32 bit.
- For that matter, I believe that any memory over 2GB in a 32bit OS isn't recognized.
- I went with Professional under the assumption that I may need to use XP Mode at some point (right now it's not very useful for personal use, but I have faith that someone will eventually extend it to better support UI applications - like games).
Update (12/3/2009):
I've had my computer now for a few weeks, and figured I would list those issues that are now showing up in the Event Viewer (at least, those that appear to be critical), plus those issues I remember for specific applications. It's not that my system is less stable now (or even that these are directly relatable to a custom-built system). But it may give you some sense that even if issues don't stop my computer from functioning - they are still being recorded:
- The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly. When this happened the machine eventually shutdown - but it took a couple of minutes (if I were in a rush I would have assumed the system had crashed.)
- Faulting application name: iexplore.exe, version: 8.0.7600.16385, time stamp: 0x4a5bc69e. Faulting module name: mshtml.dll, version: 8.0.7600.16444, time stamp: 0x4adc7244 - this is a frequent Error. I'm guessing either IE in Win7 is really unstable, or there's a problem with the fact that I set the temporary directory to my secondary drive (it doesn't kill the OS, so I'm not as concerned about it as I would be normally. But IE definitely stops functioning about once per day.) It appears as though Adobe Flash is listed for about 1/2 the failures -so I can't really say it's an IE problem.
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The Group Policy Client service did not shut down properly after receiving a preshutdown control. - Sorry, no idea what this refers to (probably could figure it out, but I didn't build a new computer system to spend my time debugging failures.) It is probably some issue with logging off a User during a system shutdown - if the user doesn't logoff before the system is shutdown technically that would be considered an error, though likely a pointless one.
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The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID - Permission failure. Again, not interested in debugging the issue (as long as my computer appears to function correctly, I will assume it's a bug that will be fixed.)
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Portal (game from Valve) wasn't able to run over Steam
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Games for Windows Live didn't seem to work. Don't know if it was a 64bit issue or Win7 (and to be honest I didn't really care - it's not like there's an obvious benefit to installing and using it.)
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Windows OnLive doesn't work (I realize it's no longer a production app, or at least not available to pay money for. For that matter, I may be mistaken on the name). But since I had multiple machines running it in the past I was hoping I could use the available license for my new machine - no luck. On the other hand, the product never seemed to be configured properly anyways, so maybe it's a good thing it doesn't work anymore. Again, I don't know if this is a 64-bit or Win7 issue.
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I've had occasional computer hangs that looked like they were related to Norton 360 tasks running simultaneously (like trying to shutdown my computer, or switching from a Remote Desktop Connection.) Nothing I couldn't recover from later - but they don't generate high levels of trust.
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It took about 30 seconds for my computer to start today - so no change yet on the time.
On a positive note, I found the Microsoft link to XP Mode yesterday (http://www.microsoft.com/windows/virtual-pc/download.aspx)
Update (12/5/2009):
I found a decent blog that describes which settings to change in Win7 to reference the regular hard drive rather than the SSD (to reduce the number of writes to the SSD). But unfortunately, I haven't been able to find it again. I did find this blog on Vista - which appears to include many of the same tricks (http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/storage/2009/08/27/ssd-performance-tweaks-for-vista/2). Basically, these are the changes to try (if you're not comfortable with these steps then it's probably safer to skip them):
- Set IE to store temporary files on drive D. If you use some other browser search for steps to do the same thing. Note, though, that IE may be used for other native applications in Windows (so even if you rarely use IE for browsing it still makes sense to change the temporary file location.)
- Disable Defraging of your SSD. Win7 should not let you defrag your SSD anyways, but to check click on 'All Programs' - 'Accessories' - 'System Tools' - 'Disk Defragmenter'. Click on 'Configure schedule...' - 'Select disks...' and make sure Drive C is not available (or selected).
- Change your temporary variables to point to Drive D. Right-click on 'Computer', then select 'Properties'. Click on 'Advanced system settings'. Click on 'Environment Variables'. Change the TEMP and TMP variables for both user and system to point to a directory on drive D
- You can also change your Paging file by clicking on Performance Settings... from the same Advanced tab. Open the 'Advanced' tab, and click on Virtual memory 'Change'. Change the Paging File Size to a Custom size (I'm using 1000 - 2000). This may impact performance in some games, so you may want to change it to a different value later on.
I also noticed one mistake I made (now that the new Intel Firmware is available to enable TRIM on the SSD - see the link provided above). In order to enable TRIM, before you install your OS you should make sure that your drive is set to AHCI in your BIOS. After you've installed the OS, I don't think it's possible to convert your drive (you can enable the AHCI drivers in Win7 with a registry tweak, and you can change your settings in your BIOS after installing the OS. But all that would do is let you enable AHCI on a new drive - not change an existing drive.)
There are 2 separate settings in your BIOS related to AHCI under Integrated Peripherals - and to be honest I don't know whch ones should be changed. And as happens frequently, there's no documentation on the differences (I think the difference is related to which SATA connection you use - the native connection for SATA1-6 or SATA7.)
There's no documentation on whether there are potential negative effects on your secondary drive - if it is connected to the same Interface port (and is not SSD). So I've decided it probably makes some sense for now to leave my drive settings as-is, and instead focus on limiting the number of writes to the SSD throgh my OS.
Update (12/6/2009):
I found the following link on changing the location of your Firefox Disk Cache - http://www.mydigitallife.info/2008/11/26/how-to-move-the-firefox-disk-cache-to-another-drive/ - again for the purpose of moving Write requests from my SSD to my hard drive.
I also changed the title of the entry - I figured that while the steps may still be useful for someone new to the process, some of the information on SSD may not be geared towards a new builder.
Update (12/7/2009):
I've started noticing that my desktop icons are disappearing (things like the trashcan). There is a Desktop Properties item to control this (right-click on your desktop, click on View. Verify that 'Show desktop icons' is enabled.) I don't know if this is related, but I now have the following Errors in Event Viewer:
- The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk2\DR2 (As a side note, what a great error. It says absolutely nothing of any use to the End User.)
- Session "ReadyBoot" stopped due to the following error: 0xC0000188 (again, of no use to an End User - except that it gives you something to search for.)
I've been trying to install Linux on a pen drive using the same machine, so it's possible some of the issues came up due to frequent rebooting without cleanly shutting down. It's also possible that (related to this) the ISO burner may not support multi-threading properly in the OS (trying to move open Windows while the Image was burning caused the machine to stutter).
And speaking of which, if you decide to try Linux - good luck. I've been trying to install any working version of Ubuntu, and all I get is an Error reading book CD when I try to do anything - which could only show up if the CD can be read from (so I get an Error message blaming my CD rom drive - which could only be reached by being able to read off the CD rom drive).
I've checked the md5 Hash Code and tried installing on multiple machines (with different hardware configurations) - all with the same Error. And the only info/help I've found on the Internet claims that it's either a hardware issue (my CD drive, specifically) or a problem with the ISO image. Since it happens on 3 (very different) machines, it's not the CD drive. And since I verified the Hash code it's not the ISO image. I'm guessing it's some shared hardware component besides the CD drive - but of course that begs the question of why the Error Message points to a CD read failure.
Update (12/19/2009):
A few more items have occurred to me:
- Booting into BIOS is extremely problematic on this system (because it boots quickly). Basically you end up frantically pressing F1 and Delete hoping that if you time it right it'll work. The unfortunate result of this is you end up continually rebooting your computer until you happen to time your keystrokes perfectly. If there isn't an Application from MSI that will shutdown Win7 and reboot directly into BIOS there should be
- The physical placement of memory on your motherboard is logically weird. If I remember correctly, memory has to be paired together in slots 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 (check with your motherboard manual to be sure. I understand that there may be a design reason why it's been implemented this way, but logically it makes no sense whatsoever to require that something be installed (in order) into slots 1,3,2,4.
- Win7 is taking up 18.6GB of drive space on my SSD. I have no idea what the minimum drive space requirements are, but keep in mind that in my environment I've moved most of the writeable directories and tasks to my hard drive (plus I'm using an SSD and I'm using the 64bit version of Win7).
- Event Viewer is still recording frequent IE failures, but no recent OS failures.
- Some Web-installed applications don't let you specify the install location. Which means that they may install on Drive C (which is what I'm trying to avoid in this build.) Not a big issue, though you could look at it as a good indication of poor application quality.
- I'm using Norton 360 as my Anti-virus software. Not sure though that I'd recommend it. There is backup software included in the package, but you can only backup to their hosted Web drive, to a local hard drive or to a mapped Network drive.
- I really dislike the idea of paying someone an annual license fee for software. In the case of anti-virus software, though, it's becoming difficult to get around this issue. As I mentioned in other Blog entries, we (the owners of the hardware) should start charging software companies for drive space usage if they're going to charge us for similar things. In other words, Norton charges us for Cloud drive space, and for using their software. So if they can connect to a hosted cloud drive, there's really no reason why they should need to install anything on my local machine.
- Backing up your hard drive on your hard drive in many ways defeats the purpose of a backup of your hard drive.
- Mapping a Network drive is an OK alternative. Except that Win7 appears to load the Network drivers after attempting to connect to all mapped drives (so everytime I start my machine the first thing I see is an error/warning saying the drive wasn't mappable. But once I attempt to access the drive I am able to.)
- The errors I listed on my 12/7/2009 update don't appear to be major errors if you search for them (as mentioned, I think they are more timing issues.) Of course, that again brings up the question as to why Microsoft decided to record them as errors in the Event Viewer.
Update (12/28/2009):
I tried to burn my first CD today off of the optical drive, and it failed miserably. No idea yet whether it failed because the default write speed causes problems, or whether some other issue occurred. Regardless, there is no reason why this task would have failed except for hardware problems in the drive or software bugs. And by failing I mean that it refused to finish, and then refused to Cancel. And closing it via the Task Manager crashed Windows Explorer. Then trying to shutdown gracefully failed, and forced me to shutdown by turning off the power. All in all, a crappy result.
Update (1/11/2010):
No real changes. Haven't seen any new types of Errors in the Event Viewer (ReadyBoot is still crashing, my Disk driver is detecting a controller error on a regular basis and IE is recording Errors on a regular basis (though none of these have stopped my computer from functioning). My SSD is showing 54.6 gb free (out of 74.4 gb - so if that continues to change I may eventually have a problem. I guess it's possible i made a mistake when originally listing the amount of space used.
I was also able to burn a CD in the past few weeks - so it appears as though the issue I ran into before was not due to hardware.